Brilliant Cut: The Heart of Sparkling Diamonds

Diamonds, as we know them, have a rather symbolic relation with antiquity and grace. Between 15th century and 19th century, nearly 700 diamonds were extracted and cut to fit the crowns and tiaras of kings and queens all over the world. Britain, France and Russian alone consumed nearly 80% of the diamonds. Diamonds are mined from South Africa, Congo, Argentina, Peru, India, Burma and Sri Lanka. 

Diamonds are Brilliant Anyways

Brilliant cut Diamond is the most preferred machine process done on precious stone. The Standard Brilliant Cut gives the most optimal light refraction. The single beam of light passes through the diamond gem and gets refracted in a scintillating manner.

Diamonds are known for their hardness. In fact, they are the hardest known naturally occurring materials. It is one of the popular allotropes of carbon, other being- Graphite. Yes, graphite is the same material used in the pencil lid. Interesting, isn’t it! 

After 17th century, diamonds were cut into many other shapes. Table Cuts Diamond and Fancy Cuts became very popular. In the beginning of the 20th century, Asscher Cut too became very trendy. Even today, gemstones like rubies, sapphires and emeralds are cut like diamonds. Rose Cut, in major polls, ranks as the most preferred diamond shaping trend, especially for the purpose engagement, wedding and anniversaries.

The History of Brilliants 

The first reported instance of tagging a diamond with Brilliant Cut has reference to Italian gem cutters named Vicenzio Peruzzi and Cardinal Jules Mazarin. They are assumed to be the first gem cutters who worked in refining the Point Cuts and came out with something brilliant- Brilliant Cut. 

The history of Brilliants remains shrouded in doubt. It is known that Cardinal Mazarin commissioned twelve largest cut diamonds in France. All of them were listed as the first Brilliants. In 1813, a French lapidary artist and gem collector referred to Vicenzio Peruzzi as the inventor of Brilliants. The historians never acknowledge this notation because of lack of evidence. 

First Guidebook on Brilliant Cuts

The first manual on how to make Brilliant Cuts was published in the year 1750. It was compiled by English diamond dealer David Jeffries who wrote his observations in the Treatise on Diamonds & Pearls. It states that Brilliant Cut diamonds was already available in the market for more than five decades. So, it can be inferred that the English gem collectors were dealing in diamonds from the family since 17th century.

Shapes in Brilliant Cut

Brilliants are cut in Round, Oval and stars. Fancy outlines are also suitable in diamonds from this range. The English gems cut in Brilliant at an angle of 45° made across the crown and the pavilion. They showcase a four-fold symmetry with short lower girdle facets.

Standard Round & Fancy Brilliant

Standard Brilliants are symbols of revolution in gem-cutting technologies. The angles are lowered and reduced table with cutlet facet increases the brilliance of the diamond. Today, Standard Round Brilliants are shaped with Fancy Brilliants resulting in effervescent shapes like ovals, hearts, pears and marquise.