When it comes to classifying gemstones, cuts and shapes are the best way to do it. There are different shapes that a particular gemstone can feature. Seemingly, the most popular shapes in the commercial in the gem market are round, oval, pear, marquise, baguette, cushion, heart and tear drop. Classifying gemstones on the basis of their shapes is a hard task, as it often requires the lapidarist to polish the rough rocks into particular patterns. Faceting and finishing give definition to the shape.
Here are some popular cuts that the finished gemstones are classified into.
Brilliant Cut gemstones
Brilliant cuts are faceted through a vertical plane along the axis connecting pavilion to the crown. It is a traditional cut that is common in all shapes of the gemstones. It can be cut into wider facets, which is called as Culet. Girdle pavilion facets cuts are also used in the Brilliant-cut gemstones when there is a remarkable gap between the main facet and the girdle. It is common in the triangular shaped gemstones.
Gemstones cut in brilliant exude maximum radiance. They have an electrifying appeal and hence the name.
Diamond cuts are called so as they are inspired by the facet cutting of a diamond. It is done for many shapes like oval round and even regular fancy patterns. The diamond cut is very similar to the Brilliant cut but has a specific symmetry and proportion that depends on the shape of the gemstone. Gemstones of smaller size bearing diamond cut are called melee stones. They have limited number of facet cuts and have hazy finish.
Trilliant/ Trillion cut
There is a distinct classification of gemstones with brilliant cuts as well. Classifying a gemstone based on whether it is a round or triangular shaped gave rise to a special cut- Trilliant cut. A brilliant cut made on a triangular gemstone is called Trilliant cut. Trilliant cut is also used to define other cuts like:
- Step cut
- Plain cuts
Tear Drop Cut
It is a hybrid cut featuring the uniqueness of oval and marquise. It retains the sparkling grace of a tear drop. Most tear drop cut gemstones are carved using hand. They weigh lighter than 3 carats and fitted into pendants and earrings. Another romanticized classification of the tear drop cut is the Heart-cut. The tear-drop cut is given a cleft in the middle so that the gemstone looks like a heart. It has a smooth contour and a well-defined cut line. It has a depth percentage between 55 to 75 percent.
Radiant cut is made exclusively on the rectangular and square shaped gemstones. It maximizes the brilliance of the gemstone by directing the cut towards gem’s depth. It is similar to the Emerald Cut, but done only for linear shapes and not curved ones. Marquis and Navettes are the thinner version of this Radiant Cut. Cushion cut made on rectangular and square shaped gemstones are called Sheild Cut.
Hence, a particular shape can be given more than one cut. This helps in elaborately classifying finished gemstones.