Rose Cut: A look at the Pristine Diamond cutting technology

Rose cuts are not new as they are often quoted to be. There have been instances when diamond dealers rate the rose cut as a 20th century phenomena. Breaking the norm, rose cut diamonds were pretty much the regular jewellery items in Antique and Heirloom collections. First rose cut diamond was made in 16th century. This cut continues to win hearts and remains one of the most sought after stones in the modern jewellery sets.

Why Rose Cut diamonds are named so?

The diamonds are cut in the shape resembling the open petals of the rose with spiralling pattern. When cut in the shape of the rose petals, the diamonds have a flat bottom and a larger surface area. This opens the surface to exhibit the brilliance even more emphatically. They feature triangular facets in the multiples of 6 on the tipped crown of the diamond. 

Why rose cuts lost the charm?

Undoubtedly, the rose cut diamond were symbolic representation of the Moughal glory in India. One of the most popular medieval gemstones is the Great Mogul, owned by Shah Jehan. The French traveller and gem collector, Jean Baptiste Tavernier,as one of the most beautiful stones he has ever seen.

Between 18th and 19th century, rose cut diamond lost the position significantly. New machining tools and cutting saws rendered the rose cut diamonds as out of fashion. They were largely replaced by the Brilliant Cuts Diamond. Popularity of Table Cuts and Point Cuts in diamond gems made the floral shaped diamond stones all the more obsolete in 18th century.The cut returned with a bang when the gem collectors tagged this as synonymous with the “engagement” and “romantic” stories.

What are different versions of rose cut?

Rose cuts are made on the diamond in an upside-down manner. The flat base is complemented by the dome-shaped crown converging at the centre of the stone. The different names of the Rose cut are Crowned Rose Cut, Full Holland Cut, Antwerp rose, Dutch Cut and the very popular Antwerp Rose cut diamond is machined in a hexagonal shape.

The Rose Cut Diamonds can be cut into 24 facets and 48 facets (called Double Dutch Rose). If you observe closely, the "Briolette Cut diamond" is actually a modified twofold Dutch Rose cut which has half of its hemisphere elongated against the other hemispherical half.

Another prominent variety of the cut is the Senaille Cut which has notable unsymmetrical facet.

Rose Cut Diamond Solitaire: The Magic

Considered as a regale cut, Rose Cut is used extensively in diamond solitaire, re-introduced with brilliant clarity and pristine lustre. The open mouth cut allowed the light to pass through the crystal freely with no hindrance in the setting.

Almost all diamonds can be cut into Rose. The most prominent factors to determine the feasibility of cutting a diamond into Rose are width and depth of the stone. Symmetry and crystal alignment are secondary factors that lapidary artists look for before going ahead with Rose Cut.

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