Going back to the 12th century, we will find the first instances of how diamond cutting became a trade of respectable position in the society. As royal families and noblemen began to showcase their pomp and glory through silk and gemstones, diamond slowly began to raise its head as one of the most precious items of collection in the treasury. The first diamonds were cut in manner that resembles the modern Point Cut. We are not talking about the trend in the year 1970, but in 1287.
Here are some truly antiquated diamond cuts that still retain their place in modern day gem cutting trends.
Diamonds that crystallised in octahedral and do-decahedral crystal lattices are left uncut. These are natural crystals and have remained so for millennia. Before America and Australia were discovered and conquered, the only source of diamonds was the Indian sub-continent. A Point Cut diamond is actually a misnomer as there are no tools involved in the machining.
Pyramidal Point Cut
Grinding became a regular gem cutting and polishing technique, especially after 15th century. Big diamonds were smoothened and polished without taking away their size. Out of multiple girdle profiles, a lapidary artist would choose the one with the largest contour in diamonds. Diamonds have always carried the charm of bestowing magical and healing effects on the person wearing them. Keeping them untouched and natural was no longer a fashionable trend. Hence, slight polishing using Pyramidal Point Cuts made at shallow planes compared to natural points became more popular.
The Burgundian Point Cut
Burgundian Point Cut is preferred for diamonds with dodecahedral crystals structure. This crystal lattice has many irregularities and requires intensive polishing. The dodecahedron crystal is aligned in a way that the four faces seem as if rising upwards.
A remarkable refreshing cutting pattern, diamonds were first cut in Table Cut using diamond dust itself! The first Table Cut diamond was shaped like alphabet “M”. It was probably the first engagement ring ever gifted. Not to forget, before Rose Cut diamond became the symbol of love and romance, Table Cuts were the fashionable items.
Old Mine Cushion Cuts
Europeans dug out new sources of diamond gemstone. Amazon and Sahara became the diamond potboilers for traders. The new cutting models for vibrant diamonds beads meant embracing an indigenous gem shaping technique. Old Mine Cushion Cut took birth in the 18th century bearing an uncanny resemblance to what we know as Modern Brilliant Cut. They gave birth to the aristocratic cuts like marquise cut/navette cut.
Old Mine Cushion Cut was produced using bruting machine powered by steam, and later motors. English Round Cuts were born from the improvements in diamond bruting machines, some of which produced 58 flawless facets in a single diamond gemstone!
Named after the world renowned gem cutters, the Asscher Brothers of Holland (they cut the world’s largest diamond- Cullinan), this is very similar to what we call Square Emeralds bearing large facets, small table and an elongated crown.